A trip through the mangrove forest is like a visit to another world. Follow meandering channels overarched by a majestic canopy of draping mangrove trees. Wildlife abounds. Fish swim lazily through the tea-colored water and birds chatter in trees above.
Mangrove forest surrounds the island of Kosrae. For most visitors, “mangrove swamp” conjures up unpleasant visions of a mosquito-infested, foul-smelling wasteland. Nothing could be further from the truth. The mangrove forests of Kosrae are a place of beauty and solitude. The mangroves are not quite sea and not yet land, and provide important environmental benefits to the island. Cruising through them on our kayaks is a relaxing and intriguing recreational opportunity.

Legend of how the
Mutunnenea Channel was formed

In this place of transition, life abounds. Herons, egrets, brown and black noddy terns, and fairy terns flit amongst the trees. Trees, decorated with long hanging ferns, grow to majestic heights. At water level their prop roots form a dense thicket on which a variety of crabs and fish live and breed. Fish swim in the channels and amongst the roots, making the forest fringes a favorite fishing spot for Kosraeans. Look for schools of mullet and red snapper as you paddle through. The popol clam, found deep in the mud, is a favorite food.

In addition to their beauty, mangroves play a vital role in the island ecosystem. They are a buffer between the clear waters of the fringing reef and the silt-laden runoff from Kosrae's mist-shrouded peaks. Their roots form a giant sieve, trapping silt that might otherwise smother the delicate corals. More subtly, they play an important role in regulating the flow of nutrients, metering out sustenance to the seagrass beds at their edge.

Because the mangrove forest is rich with life, it is an important resource for the people of Kosrae. The trees provide timber, the channels are a protected transportation network and their waters are a favored place to fish. In particular, the sweet-flavored mangrove crab is a universal favorite.

Before passable roads and cars came to Kosrae about 30 years ago, the channels were the routes of commerce and communication. The two channels are part of a larger network stretching from Walung on the western tip of Kosrae to Tafunsak in the north. Only the relatively protected north shore of the island does not have a channel. With the arrival of cars, many of the channels have fallen into disuse by the locals, but today they can provide a very special experience for the visitor.